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L.E.D. F.A.Q.

L.E.D. F.A.Q.

Intro

We often get asked why a person should choose our kit over another competitor’s kit. The honest answer is because we have spent the time and money to research, design and test the very best options available today so that you can spend the least amount of money while getting the very best results.

The next few questions people ask generally become much more direct and tend to focus on one of the following topics; the led light design itself, the science behind the lights or the installation of the lights. So we decided to answer those questions here in our L.E.D. Info section. We are going to start by explaining the differences in L.E.D. strip light design.

 

L.E.D. Info

What kind of L.E.D. is it?

There are several varieties of L.E.D. strips on the market. 3528’s, 2835’s and 5050’s just to name a few. Some of these such as 3528’s have a very low light output while others such as our 2835’s have a very high output all while maintaining an extremely low power consumption. The latest and greatest is the 2835’s with the 5050’s shortly behind. There are other L.E.D.’s available but we feel that their power consumption and light output don’t make a great all night fishing solution. The rule here is to make sure you are aware what L.E.D. chip you are buying (2835, 5050 3528’s etc) and what its power consumption is. A reputable supplier will be able to tell you the amps per hour necessary to run their light kit. If you divide that number into the amps of your battery then the answer is how many hours you can run the lights off your battery.

For example if the lights use 1 amp hour and your battery is 10 amps then the lights will run for 10 hours.

***The answer you get may vary from your actual results depending on battery, wiring etc***

 

Do you use speaker wire to run the lights?

No!!!  It is imperative not to use speaker wire.  We use Copper Core power and ground wires sheathed in a speaker wire pvc cover.  Speaker wire or Copper Coated Aluminum (CCA) is not intended to run power.  Dont buy LED's from cheap manufacturers using CCA.

 

Are your lights really waterproof?

Many suppliers use lights with a rating as low as IP65 and while this rating will work for some applications it is definitely not worthy of rough water or for submerged use for any interval.

Here is the usual ratings you will see and a simplified explanation of their meaning.

  • IP65 - Accepts short bursts of water without possible damage
  • IP66 - Accepts Constant burst’s of water without possible damage
  • IP67 - Accepts short periods of full immersion
  • IP68 - Accepts submersion up to 1 meter for an indefinite amount of time

Make sure the lights you choose can handle a full submersion or at the very least temporary submersion. All of our strips arerated  IP68 unless noted otherwise.

 

How Many L.E.D.’s per strip?

Each variety of L.E.D. chip can come with an assortment of L.E.D.’s per strip. The number of L.E.D.’s is based on the length of the strip and the number of L.E.D.’s per foot/meter, in other words a 5050 strip of 9 L.E.D.’s per foot or 30 per meter will be brighter than a 3528 with the same number of L.E.D.’s per foot because the 5050 L.E.D.’s produces more light per L.E.D. However the 5050 strip will use more power. Now take the same length 3528 strip and double the L.E.D.’s in the strip to 18 per foot or 60 per meter and you will get a brighter light output then the 5050’s with a slightly higher power consumption then the 5050’s. The point here is, make sure you are comparing apples to apples. If another competitor lists only their light output make sure you ask them about L.E.D. count and length in order to get an accurate way to compare products.   The industry standard for measuring L.E.D. strips is in meters. Here are the normal L.E.D. counts per meter you will see and the rough conversions to L.E.D. s per foot.

30 L.E.D.’s per meter - 9 L.E.D.’s per foot

60 L.E.D.’s per meter – 19 L.E.D.’S per foot

96 L.E.D.’s per meter – 31 L.E.D.’s per foot

120 L.E.D.’s per meter – 38 L.E.D.’s per foot

 

Is bigger better?

Yes!!! The actual chip which is where light is emitted from should be as large as possible. This ensures that the chip will be able to dissipate as much heat as possible. A cooler strip won’t push the internal wiring as hard as a hot strip which results in a longer life span.

 

Do your strips come with an adhesive backing?

Almost all the other L.E.D.s on the market come with a 3m backing from the manufacturer. Many companies allow you to use this as a way to mount the lights to your boat or dock. We however don’t feel that this backing is enough to secure the lights to today’s powerful boats. Nor do we feel it is safe as a secure backing to separate the L.E.D.’s from aluminum boats such as Jon Boats. That’s why we always include a 3m fabric weld tape in every kit ordered as well as a helpful gel adhesive. The tape acts as a buffer for aluminum boats and it makes a great long term removable solution for the lights. The tape will need to be replaced every year to every few years depending on how the boat is stored and used while the lights are installed. The gel allows a stronger bond between the LED lights and the Fabric weld adhesive.

 

Do your strips come with a warranty?

Yes, our L.E.D. strips are guaranteed for two years from the time of purchase against all manufacturer defects.

 

How long do the strips last?

If you can manage not to hit things like docks, trees, trailers etc then these lights have a life span of more than 50,000 hours. That’s a life span of 5 and a half years if you ran them constantly!!!

 

The science

Now that we have covered the basics of the LED’s let’s talk about the science behind our kit. Ever since the 1st light was placed over water and fished under we have known that fishing under lights at night is without a doubt better. Fast forward to today and now all of a sudden people are going to green lights over the old white lights. We see sinking lights, floating lights and lights meant to be mounted above the water. Without becoming a biologist what is a fisherman to do? Well we tried to condense the information that we feel is important for you to know and placed it into the following paragraphs.

 

Under, at or above the surface?

Our kit is designed to be mounted above the water. The reason for this is because the first stage of organisms necessary for a truly amazing bait ball is small organisms like plankton and copepods. Plankton floats around the surface where light is most prevalent at night so that they can still photosynthesize. The added light from our L.E.D.’s helps draw in other planktonic eating organisms like free swimming copepods. This is the secret to keeping bait around the lights and thus attracting more game fish to the light to feed.

 

Why Green?

Unfortunately there is no secret fishing mystery for the reason that green lights work so well, the science behind it is actually quite simple. As light travels through water the light gets absorbed by the water. It just so happens that green is one of the few colors that penetrates the farthest through water. With this knowledge we can now confidently fish while knowing we are able to get light out through the water as far as possible. Add this to the knowledge that we are efficiently building a bait ball and it’s easy to see why these lights can improve your average catch as much as 400%!!!

 

What’s the secret to building huge bait balls?

The secret to building huge bait balls is patience. Just like any fishing tool it’s going to take time to learn how to best use your lights. Here are some simple tips to help you through the learning curve.

  • Find bait and fish on your fish finder before setting up
  • Try to stay out of current and wind because plankton can’t swim
  • Always try to anchor up for the best results
  • If there is no bait at all in 1 hour move on
  • Make sure your ball is always slowly growing
  • Be patient big bait balls can take time and then blow up almost all at once

 

Do I fish in the light?

The short answer is maybe, the better answer is it depends on what you’re fishing for. Predators like Speckled Trout, Red Fish, Striper and other large game fish will often cruise outside the main light while feeding or they may come through the light to pick off a meal. Other fish like Perch, Crappie, Catfish and White Bass will often sit under the light. So how you fish the light will depend on what type of fish your fishing for but expect some surprises as all fish will come to check out the lights and the huge buffet.

 

Install Info

Okay so now you understand what to look for and you know how and why they work but how do you install them? The idea of wires hanging all over is fairly unpleasant but this isn’t nearly as bad as the thought of drilling a hole in your boat so what is the solution. In short it’s the solution that’s best for you. In the long run your install is going to depend on what kind of boat you have and your budget. Any boat shop will be able to install these lights but a clean install can be pricey. However if you don’t want to do the install yourself and you don’t want wires showing this is the best route.

On the other hand if you don’t mind a few wires a clean install is very possible by simply tucking wires into storage boxes, under boat carpet & under seats etc. Many times the only wires showing are the wires going right over the edge to the L.E.D.’s and with proper installation there is no need to run wiring down the outside of your boat. We always recommend installing the lights where the wiring pig tails terminate near the battery or near access to the battery so you can simply bring them right over the rail of the boat.

Our kit comes with a wiring diagram and the installation instructions as well as everything you will need for a simple install. (you will need basic hand tools) If you can install a car stereo or home audio system our L.E.D. lights should be no problem. Each Strip has a positive and negative that you will run to a joining point inside the boat then you will run a single positive and a single negative through the included on/off switch, fuse box and up to the battery. You will need to supply your own way to attach the kit to your current batteries positive and negative terminals. This is due to such a variety of batteries on the market.

 

It is our hope that the above information helped you make an informed purchase and to have a better understanding of how L.E.D.s can lead to a great fishing trip.

Please feel free to contact us with any further questions.

1stclasstackle@gmail.com

                       

 

 

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